For me, this is more Chenin Blanc and Viura, Loire Saumur meets the great white wines made of Viura from Rioja, like the Lopex de Heredia Vina Gravonia Blanco. Salty, minerally, with high toned white orchard fruits. This is fresh in spades and has a core of energy sourced from the vibrant acidity and freshness of the fruit. Excellent!
- 30-45-year-old vines
- Fermented and aged 90% used French Oak; 10% stainless steel.
- 1 year of lees contact with no battonage.
- 50% Rabigato, 20% Codega, 15% Gouveio (Godello), 10% Viosinho.
- Planted to mica schist at 500-600 m (1,640 -1,968 ft) elevation.
- minuscule 750 cases of production
91+ pts Wine Advocate (RP)
The 2017 Branco "Xisto Cru" is 70% Rabigato with Códega, Gouveio and Viosinho principally filling out the rest. It was aged for 12 months in used French oak and comes in at 12.7% alcohol. It was sourced from the Mêda region at the southern border of Douro Superior with vines over 80 years old at 650 to 700 meters in altitude. There's a bit of wood showing here, but it fades easily as the wine sits. Relatively fleshy despite the low alcohol, this is beautifully balanced, the freshness always supporting the fruit. Harmonious and subtly concentrated, it should age well. How well it develops is another question. Let's start here now. This does need to show the ability to develop and become more complex with age. There were 4,690 bottles and 120 magnums produced.