Over the last few weeks, I have seen this one pop in more than a few influential wine folks' Instagram pages, particularly MS Pascaline Lapeltier, someone I am friendly with from my days in NY and whose palate I trust very much.
Adriana Marzi and Roberto Bruno founded Cantina del Glicine (Wisteria in English) in Neive’s in 1980. Wisteria (“glicine” in Italian) colorfully decorates the winery’s courtyard and garden. Beyond its functionality, the winery’s cellar, which dates as far back as 1582, is of great historical value to Barbaresco. With remarkable bottlings from the crus of Currà and Marcorino, Glicine has brought renown to these small vineyards of Neive.
Vignesparse Barbaresco 2015
Cantina del Glicine
$36.99 3+ (US Low)
Glicine is a small, traditional Piemontese producer – wines are aged in large Slavonian oak with long fermentations. The farming is organic, but not certified. Glicine produce a few Barbaresco wines, including two single-vineyard wines from the Cura and Marcorino Crus. Today's wine, the Vignesparse or “scattered vines” in English, is a blend of fruit from 3 Barbaresco Crus: Gallina, Serraboella, and Serracapelli. Finesse from Gallina, structure from Serraboella, and fruit from Serracapelli, which creates a balance in the wine and the complexity that a single-vineyard might not deliver.
Like many 2015s, the Vignesparse has some muscle and depth, but it’s not heavy and is a wine that floats. Tasted right on opening (without decanting), it was immediately appealing, but it continued to open and improve over the next two days until it really hit a sweet spot. Aromatically classic, with rose, balsalm, red fruit and foresty elements; fine tannins softened considerably with air, making for an elegant and weightless wine, with great persistence on the palate. A real treat now, especially with a decent amount of time in a decanter, but this will continue to develop over the next few years. And yes, a hell of a deal to boot!